Understanding your skin barrier and what type of dryness you have
There can be a lot of confusion when it comes to skin - is it dry skin, is it eczema, is it something more? I wanted to take some time to break down and clear up the difference between skin conditions such as eczema, and how they differ from just having dry skin.
Aside from environmental factors, eczema and excessive dryness can arise from genetic predisposition, hormonal changes, diet, stress, pollutants, and more. Being aware of all these different factors can assist you in not only picking a correct treatment for your skin, but also not wasting your money. Prevention is key in this season, not everyone needs an eczema specific lotion or a trip to the dermatologist. Even certain foods and teas can help hydrate your skin from the inside out.
To start out, let’s clarify what eczema and psoriasis are, in order to distinguish them from dry skin, and work from there on how you can combat the cracking and bleeding.
What is Eczema?
Eczema, or atopic dermatitis, is a form of itchy, inflamed skin. This almost always, 60% of the time appears in childhood in the first year of life. It’s important to note also that cases can range from milld to severe. While some may just experience itchy skin, other have blisters that become infected and cover large areas of the body.
Atopic dermatitis is the most common type of eczema that we see. This is when people will say they have “flare ups” similar to any other autoimmune disease.
It is thought that eczema is a prime example of epigenetics, as there seems to be a very clear connection to both genes and environment. If one or both of your parents suffered from eczema, there is a three-five fold increase you will as well
20-30% of people have a mutation in the FLG gene which plays important role in structure of outermost skin barrier. Hydration and not allowing toxins/allergens/bacteria in
As a result of an overactive immune system, the skin barrier breaks down and toxins, allergens, and bacteria can get in. For this reason, people find relief from taking an antihistamine in addition to topical treatments.
Flare ups can be hormonal! Women will often see flare ups just before and during period, during pregnancy, following pregnancy, and during menopause. When oestrogen drops and cyclical hormone fluctuations occur, the skin’s ability to produce lipids is altered. This relates to collagen and sebum production, water binding capacity and fluid retention, and even elasticity for wound healing. There is even a term for this: premenstrual dermatitis, as up to 47% of women experience an increase of symptoms before their periods!
The immune system and microbial diversity component is huge in eczema. C-section births, low maternal vitamin D status, formula feeding, early antibiotics, pollutants, poor diet, and more can all affect the child’s microbiome and therefore their immune system. This often results in what is called “Th2 Dominance” aka, one type of T helper cell is overactive and does not return to homeostasis when a threat is not apparent.
Assure your phase 1 and 2 liver detox pathways are functioning, support your digestion and microbial diversity, experiment with elimination diets to see if certain foods are causing you flare ups.
Dry Skin
Aside from a diagnosed condition related to your immune system or genetics, it is completely possible to just have dry skin in the winter! If you live in a climate that sees a drastic drop in temperature in the winter months, your skin is exposed to far less humidity, and far more artificial heat indoors. This really zap the moisture from your skin barrier and leaves it dehydrated. On top of it, Vitamin D is a natural anti-inflammatory, and we are spending far less time in direct sunlight in the winter, exacerbating all conditions of inflammation, such as irritated skin!
Nonetheless, the winter season is not a death sentence for your skin. You can still glow during these months with simple adjustments and protection.
Use a humidifier in your room at night to retain a false sense of “humidity" by keeping moisture in the air!
Use lotions that are thick and rich in minerals, oils (such as jojoba),Vitamin E, are fragrance free, and are free of alcohols and sulfates. Apply to damp skin right after washing to lock it in
Try to avoid extremely hot water in the shower as this can disrupt your skin’s natural oils
Avoid over exfoliating. Incorporate oil cleansing, pat instead of scrubbing with a washcloth, and cold blast the water at the end of your shower
Understanding the Skin Barrier: How I Can Prevent and Treat Dryness
Understanding the way your skin works, is layered, absorbs nutrients, and keeps out toxins is crucial to caring for it.
At the very base, you have a layer of subcutaneous fat and connective tissue that provider insulation and warmth, shoes energy, and provides a barrier for shocks and roughage. Next, you will find the dermis layer with blood vessels, nerves, sweat glands, and hair follicles. Above that lies the epidermis. The epidermis is what you can see with the naked eye. The cells building up this layer or skin are constantly cycling and being renewed on a monthly basis. This layer is responsible for protecting your skin and is also where you will see the effects of dryness!
Lotions with humectants such as ceramides, glycerol, hyaluronic acid, and sorbitol will attract moisture to your skin
Petroleum jelly, silicone, and mineral oils will then help to seal in this moisture to your skin barrier. This is why it is crucial to apply lotions and oils when your skin is still damp, so that it can absorb as much hydration as possible!
Emollients will work on top of all these to then fill in the spaces between skin cells. These include linolenic and lauric acids. They cover the skin with a protective film and can even be helpful with eczema and psoriasis
Please keep in mind that when it comes to topical treatments, everyone’s skin is very unique and will not respond the same to products. This is why I like to recommend and implement dietary changes as well when treating dry skin and eczema:
Vitamin A, C, D, E, B, and Zinc can all support the skin barrier function by strengthening and supporting collagen production
Foods rich in Zinc and Omega-3 drastically reduce inflammation and support liver detox pathways. These include pumpkin seeds, fatty fish, oysters, almonds, spinach, and chickpeas
It may seem too simple, but foods rich in water such as fresh fruits are actually hydrating for your skin as well!
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